a.Foundation, preceeded if required by under eye concealers.
b.Corrections And Improvements.
c.Blushers.
d.Powders.
e.Eye Makeup.
f.Lip Makeup.
Use Of Under-Eye Concealers:
Concealers are applied to cover dark circles around the eyes, thereby grweatly enhancing the appearance of the face.They are matched to the skin tone and are applied before using the harmony foundation.When any product is applied around the eyes, special care must be taken so that the skin is not stretched.Instead of applying the cream from the inside corner of the eye to the outside it should be dabbed on the skin and then gently blended with the finger tips moving from the outside corner to the inside corner.This procedure will not pull the skin.After the product has dried, more can be applied to build up the desired opacity.To remove, use a cosmetic cleanser, instead of vigorously rubbing the skin with soap and water.
A.Foundation:
Application Technique:
Put a little foundation on the hand(add a complimentary tone if necessary).Dot it over the face-on the nose, the cheeks, the chin and the temples and in between the brows.Using the tips of two fingers or a small clean, dampened sponge(from which excess water has been removed) blend the foundation.Always work from the face outwards, to avoid an accumulation of the foundation around the hairline-move from the cheeks to the ears, from between the brows down over the nose, from the chin out towards the jaw, then onto the neck.Work quickly, carefully and lightly.Blend well around the hairline, on the neck, below the eyes and behind the ears.Also take the foundation over the eyelids.Finally blot the face with a clean dry tissue, pressing it lightly over the skin.
B.Corrections And Improvements Through The Use Of Make-up:
Correction of poor skin tones is achieved by using a correcting make-up base: a mauve base can conceal pale and dull skin tones and brighten the skin.A green base masks red blotches and ruddiness.The under-eye concealer camouflages dark circles under the eye.These correcting bases have to be applied before applying foundation.To improve facial features, use is made of the fact that pale shades lengthen, fill out, and brighten, while dark shades reduce, deepen, darken, and conceal.This form of correcting base is applied after the use of basic foundation.These correcting bases are available as liquids, creams and even as pencils.
1.Correcting The Facial Morphology: The ideal facial shape is oval and by the clever use of dark and pale tones, every facial type can be made to appear oval.
a.Trapezoidal Face: The trapezoidal face can be made to look more oval by redefining the lower part with dark foundation and using light makeup at the temple.
b.Rectangular And A Square Face: Both these shapes are redefined at the four corners with dark foundation.
c.Triangular Face: The triangular face needs dark foundation at the temples and to shorten the chin while the lower face needs enlargement using light makeup.
d.An Oval Face:The oval face needs shortening at the forehead and chin with dark foundation.
e.Round Face: The round face is made to appear oval by using dark makeup at the temples and around the lower face.
2.Correcting The Chin And The Nose:
Here again, playing with colours, you can balance other features of your face.
a.A Prominent Chin:This can be corrected by applying dark foundation on the tip of the chin.
b.A Double Chin: This can be corrected by putting a dark foundation on the double chin.
c.A Long Nose: A long nose appears short by applying dark makeup on the tip.
d.A Broad Nose: For a broad nose apply dark foundation along each side of the nose.
e.Short Nose: To emphasize a short nose apply pale makeup along the top of the nose along its whole length.
f.Narrow Nose: For a narrow nose apply a bright foundation on each side.
g.Crooked Nose: For a crooked nose, cover the crooked side with a dark foundation and the opposite side with a light foundation.
C.Applying Blusher:The next step is the use of the blusher or the rouge.These cosmetics do several things to your face.
How To Apply Blusher?
Use the colour on the blush area.This is the part of the face between parallel lines, one extending outward from the corner of your eye and the second from the bottom of your nose.Smile and lightly touch the blusher brush on the fatty part of the cheek and gently brush the blusher toward the temple, making a slight curve.A touch of colour across the forehead and on the chin cometes the look.The cream rouge is applied to the cheeks with the fingertips in small amounts and spread in the desired fashion.The powder blusher is applied with a brush.
D.Applying Powder:Technique:
Make sure the foundationis well blended.Blot the face lightly with a tissue, especially over the forehead, nose and chin.Pick up the powder on the puff and press it firmly on the face, one area at a time.Don't try to smooth it on by massaging the puff over the face.Now using a soft, thick powder brush, whisk away the excess, with downward movement to stop the powder getting caught in the fine facial hair.
E.Eye Makeup:
Almond shaped eyes are considered to be the ideal.So when making up eyes, one tries with the help of light and dark eye makeup to make the necessary changes to give the eyes an almond appearance.
1.Eyeshadow: Application Technique:
The following steps are followed in the application of eyeshadow shades.
i.Using a fine, blunt-ended brush, gently apply the base colour to the entire lid from the inside to the outside corner and from the base of the lashes to the eyelid crease.
ii.If the eyes need extra definition, a deeper shade is blended into the crease line.This gives depth to the eyes.
iii.The brow bone is highlighted with a light shade.This gives the eyes a wide, open look.The colour is applied to the most prominent area and blended up towards the brow and down to where the contour curves down, toward the eyelid creases.
Before using them on the lids, always test the colours on the back of the hand to test the intensity.You can use even 3-4 colours, provided they are blended well.Remember pale tones emphasize, while deep sooty shades define.
2.Eye Liners:Application Technique For The Liquid EyeLiner:
Test, on the back of your hand, the amount of pressure you should apply.Unless you are a real artist, it is best to steady your elbow on a flat surface.Work from the inside of the eye to the outside corner and keep the line light and even.If you stop at the corner of the eyes, the effect will be round and wide-eyed;if you continue the line and sweep it up and out, you would get a more exotic look.Finally smudge the edges with a cotton bud to soften them.
Application Technique For The Pencil Eyeliner:
Pencils can be used in the same manner to define or extend the shape of the eyes, but they give a softer, more natural line.Keep them sharpened and ready for use, as blunted or broken points can spoil the whole effect.
3.Mascara:How To Apply Mascara?
For best results, first look down and brush the top lashes from the roots downwards, then look up and brush the top lashes upwards.Then still looking up, brush colour on the lower lashes.Wait for a minute for them to dry, and similarly apply a second coat.Finally brush with a clean dry brush, to separate the lashes.
To Remove Mascara:
While removing the mascara avoid the colour from going onto the delicate area below the bottom lashes and close your eyes.Roll a cotton bud dipped in a cosmetic cleanser over the lashes, taking the mascara down onto the tissue.Repeat till all the mascara is gone.
4.Correction Of Eyes Using Makeup:
You can improve your eye shape by experimenting with colour and texture.Identify the shape of your eyes and follow the tips given:
i.For Small Eyes:Pluck the eyebrows fine to give maximum eye area.Use a little shadow under the lower lashes as well as on the top of the lid.Blend the shadow on the upper lid from the centre outwards, curving it upwards towards the brow in the shape of a wing.Line both the lids, extending the meeting line fairly out, to increase the length of the eyes.Mascara both the upper and lower lashes, using two coats on the outer lashes only.
ii.For Wide-Set Eyes:Pencil the eyebrows close to each other.Add a little shadow onto the bridge of the nose or blend your shadow close to the corner of the nose and stop at the centre of the upper lid.To make the eyes appear a little closer, start outlining the upper lid from the inner corner of the eye, bringing it near the nose ridge, leaving just the width of one eye in between the two eyes.Continue the line towards the outer corner but not quite extending up to it.
iii.For Close-Set Eyes: Shape the eyebrows so that they don't have the close-together appearance.Use the eyeshadow on the upper outer half of the lid extending above the eye and under the brow.To offset the closeness of the eyes, start drawing the eye line on the upper lid away from the inner corner.Draw it up and out.Similarly, the lower line should not begin from the inner corner.
iv.For Deep-Set Eyes:Use a dark eyeshadow under the eyebrow, but not on the lid, where if you want to, you can use a lighter eyeshadow.Line only the lower lid and extend the line fairly out and up.
v.For Round Eyes:Make sure the shape of your eyebrows is angular.Blend your shadow from the centre of the lid and deepen it at the outer edge of the eye, extending it a little beyond the outer corner of the eye.Line the upper lids, starting from the inner corner and extend it out and up so as to suggest length.
What You Would Need? Lip Makeup Application Technique: Shaping Up Your Lips: 1.Small Mouth With Small Lips: Patching Up: |
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